Old Fashioned Tomato Relish

An ode to old school Aussie roadhouses, condiments and flavour.

As a child family holidays were spent traveling in the car. Weekends visiting country towns staying in old school motels with a breakfast hatch and treks along highways to far flung destinations.

As was the nature of road travel in the 70’s and 80’s we would set off in, what felt like, the middle of the night most often to visit their dear friends in southern Sydney. It’s an inexplicable notion to me today but perfectly normal then. Mum and Dad after a few hours sleep would pull me from bed, plonk me in the back seat of the car still half asleep where I’d curl up and nod off again. Gently rocked in my slumber by the rumble of the road under our old white roofed royal blue station wagon I could vaguely hear their chatter each trying to keep the other awake for the eight hour drive. That travel sleep of car rides or airplane ones is never a deep sleep, you’re vaguely aware of your surroundings and the conversations around you. With bumps in the road you open an eye checking the scenery wondering where you are but too sleepy to mutter an inevitable ‘are we there yet?’ Though funnily those hints of chatter you were aware of did register somewhere in your sleep subconscious with eyes flinging open at the sound of Mum suggesting an early morning rest stop at the next road house.

We did these trips all the time but one still stands out in my memory. Having heard murmurings from the front seat of an imminent stop for brekkie I stretched and wriggled myself awake rubbing sleep from my eyes and sensing a rumbling tummy. Looking out the window barely tall enough to see out, I was greeted with pastel coloured ribbon streaks through the sky as day emerged. This was in the days of the Hume highway still running through all the beautiful towns along the Hume and the approach of the next town was marked by petrol stations with old school roadhouses. In the distance I could see the sign popping up over the horizon the large golden sheep heralding our approach to the Golden Fleece petrol station (remember that brand?). Pulling up we alighted from the car to a frosty morning in search of something warm to fuel us for the remainder of the journey. Inside its warm refuge we were greeted by a cheery woman behind a hot brightly lit bain-marie where all manner of hearty fare was on offer. I looked around to see truck drivers also taking a break tucking in to their morning selections and noticed many enjoying bacon and egg rolls. So my choice was made as I asked the lady serving us for a bacon and egg roll which she took from the servery. Hungry and cold I hurriedly opened the white paper bag and excitedly took my first bite. A flavour different to home greeted me. Curious I lifted the top half of my bread roll to investigate to discover a blob of simple tomato sauce (ketchup) slathered atop the salty bacon and crispy edged egg. Mum noticed my suspicious inspection and reminded me ‘we have sauce at home keep eating.’ Yes we had sauce but we had it on sausages and burgers, pies and sausage rolls not bacon and eggs. Anyway munch on I did and with each bite delighted at the sweet and tangy addition of the red oozy sauce that coated each bite of bacon.

There on that frosty early morning in a random country roadhouse on the outskirts of Yass my tastebuds were lit with a curiosity for flavour that’s lasted a lifetime.

I now, never leave for a trip myself without a little stash of condiments and I definitely never return without more, they make the best souvenirs. Known amongst my friends as the condiment queen I’ve been accused of being incapable of eating without some form of embellishment. My husband has even gone from reluctantly packing my stash to resignedly doing so but absolutely enjoying it’s offerings on our forays.

In recent weeks reading, and mentioning to you, the fab new book The Condiment Book and Sophie Hansen’s brilliant jam newsletter I was reminded how much I used to love making my own. Sure I’ve had small bouts of firing up the big pot over the years but haven’t become someone who stocks the larder at the end of every summer. After studying the comprehensive work of The Condiment Book and a round of Jamming as Sophie calls it, an empty shelf in the pantry and gorgeous market produce set me back on the preserving path.

After a trip to the farmer’s market I rummaged around in a cupboard I use for old paper back cook books (hello Women’s Weekly cookbook collection), clippings from magazines from years ago and Nana’s recipe collection I finally found the recipe for Tomato Relish that I used to love making. With my new knowledge and confidence and a large pot and wooden spoon I chopped, measured and stirred my way to homemade condiment heaven climbing back up to the dizzying heights of my self appointed throne. The Condiment Queens Consort’s confirmation that it was very good was all I needed to straighten my condiment crown and stack the shelf with jars of my version of bright red chunky tomato relish.

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If you never made a relish or chutney I urge you to have a go. This one is super easy and a great place to start if you’re keen to try.

Ingredients:

1 ½ kg ripe roma tomatoes peeed and cut into rough chunks all juice preserved

2 large onions peeled and chopped roughly

375 ml apple cider or malt vinegar

330 gm (1 ½ c) brown sugar

1 tsp mustard powder dried

1 tsp yellow mustard seed

1 Tb (4 tsp) mild curry powder

½ tsp cayenne pepper

1/8 tsp clove ground

1/8 heaped tsp ground allspice

1 ½ tsp cooking/kosher salt (not flaked variety)

Method:

This makes roughly 4-5 cups which equates to 4’ish average size jars. When preparing I tend to wing it and eyeball the jar sizes and always prepare one jar more than I think I’ll need and I choose a small jar for a spare as it’s always, weirdly, a scoop or so left in the pot.

To prepare your jars wash jars and lids in hot soapy water. Dry with a clean tea towel and pop on a tray in the oven.

To peel tomatoes, cut a shallow cross in the base of each tom just enough to break the skin without plunging into the flesh, place them all in a large bowl. Boil the kettle then pour hot water over the bowl of toms allowing them to sit for a minute for the skin to ‘blister’ then drain. The points of the slitted skin will have peeled up allowing you to grab them with a knife allowing them to peel back easily slipping off. Roughly chop them and tip the flesh and juice into a pot.

Measure and add all other ingredients and add to the pot. Stir well and turn heat on Medium high. Bring to the boil stirring frequently. Once up to a vigorous boil reduce heat to low and simmer for 1- 1 ½ hours, this variation in time will depend on the moisture in your toms and how long it takes to reduce.

As soon as you reduce heat to medium turn the oven on to 120c with the jars in there. Allow the heat of the oven to finish sterilising the jars for 10 minutes after the oven reaches temperature. Once the time is up you can turn the oven off and leave the jars in there to stay warm or turn it right down.

Back to the stove, allow the relish to simmer and bubble until it reduces to one that reminds you of a thick pasta sauce or of relishes you’ve bought. Relish isn’t like jam it won’t ‘set’ like a jam rather you’re reducing it right down to the thickness you want it to be when you eat it. It will gain a small amount of viscosity on cooling but not much.

When ready take jars out of the oven. Using oven gloves or the like to handle the jars. If you have a wide mouth or jam funnel use it to pour the mixture into the jars. If you don’t transfer the mixture to a jug and carefully pour into each jar. It’s a messy business but worth it. Pop the lids on immediately and turn upside down. This creates a vacuum helping to preserve it. Allow the jars to rest in the cupboard for a week before opening to allow the tang of the vinegar to soften.

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Reading:

~ Jojo Moyes new one We All Live Here. Another engrossing read from her, this one featuring a midlife woman/mum post-divorce living with a revolving door of male characters in her life, family, friends, ex and romantic interests and their parts in her personal reckoning. Lots of laughs a few tears and loads of ah ha nodding moments. I’ve loved it for a bedtime read, hard recc.

~ When it arrives, The Baker’s Book by Ruby Goss and a huge collection of recipes from Australia’s baking favourites. I had the privilege and thrill of working on the book’s shoot in the kitchen team last year and cant wait for my copy to arrive. The recipes are stunningly delicious and easy to follow guiding you with straightforward instructions and stunning photography. All bias aside it’s a beautiful volume that will be a collector’s book to cherish. You can preorder here.

Eating:

~ These Tiramisu Brownies next time the boys are home, I still haven’t got Hubby drinking the good stuff.

~ This pasta recipe with all my sourdough discard. Love the idea of adding it to the pasta making process.

Have a great weekend friends, hope you have a go at the relish.

S xx